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Q:
Common ingredients in anti-wrinkle creams?

Many anti wrinkle
creams contain  retinol
(vitamin A) which has
been shown to rejuvenate the
appearance of skin. Retinol is less potent than the vitamin A derivative tretinoin, a prescription topical treatment approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating wrinkles.

A newly synthesized photostable
retinol derivative (retinyl N-formyl
aspartamate) for photodamaged skin.
Lee MS et al. Journal of the American
Academy of Dermatology- 2006 08
(Vol. 55, Issue 2).

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Common ingredients in anti-wrinkle creams:

The effectiveness of anti-wrinkle creams depends in part on the active ingredient or
ingredients. Here are some common ingredients that may result in slight to modest
improvements in wrinkles.

* Retinol. Retinol is a vitamin A compound and is the first antioxidant to be widely used in
nonprescription wrinkle creams. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals
— unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Avoid vitamin
A derivatives if you're pregnant or may become pregnant because they increase the risk
of birth defects.
* Hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids are all
synthetic versions of acids derived from sugar-containing fruits. These acids are
exfoliants — substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the
growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin. Because hydroxy acids increase your
susceptibility to sun damage, wear sunscreen during use and for at least one week
afterward.
* Coenzyme Q10. Coenzyme Q10 is a nutrient that helps regulate energy production in
cells. Some studies have shown reduction in fine wrinkles around the eyes with no side
effects. Other studies show that application before sun exposure protects against sun
damage.
* Copper peptides. Copper is a trace element found in every cell. In products applied to
the skin, it's combined with small protein fragments called peptides. Copper peptides
enhance wound healing. They also stimulate production of collagen and may enhance the
action of antioxidants.
* Kinetin. A plant growth factor, kinetin may improve wrinkles and uneven pigmentation
with minimal irritation. It's unclear how it works, but it may help reduce wrinkles by helping
skin retain moisture and by stimulating the production of collagen. It may also be a potent
antioxidant.
* Tea extracts. Green, black and oolong tea contain compounds with antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory properties. Green tea extracts are the ones most commonly found in wrinkle
creams.
http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/wrinkle-creams/SN00010


The Stretch-Mark Cream Turned Anti-Wrinkle Phenomenon

In the latest edition of 60 Millions De Consommateur, StriVectin-SD ("the stretch-mark
cream turned anti-wrinkle phenomenon") was rated as the best, most effective anti-wrinkle
face cream ... beating the likes of Dior, Chanel, ROC, L'Oreal, Lancome and other high-
end (and French made) products costing as much as 142 Euros (about $185) per ounce.

Launched in Aug. 2004 at Sephora's flagship location on the fabled Champs-Elysees,
StriVectin took the French capital by storm, receiving rave reviews from the media and
savvy French consumers ... and quickly becoming the best-selling skin-care product in
French Sephora stores.

"StriVectin had already set sales records in the United States so we expected great
results in France," said Gina Gay, spokesperson for Klein-Becker, distributor of
StriVectin. "But let's face it, French women have access to the most sophisticated
cosmetics in the world and they're extremely skeptical about products from America. Yet
when it comes to reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and crows' feet, they
prefer a formula from, of all places, Salt Lake City, Utah. That's an incredible story."

According to the article in 60 Million magazine, which is published by France's principal
consumer organization, a panel of 264 women (ranging in age from 30 -70) said StriVectin
was "best" and most effective.
http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/medicalnews.php?newsid=53324


Anti Wrinkle Cream Ingredients

Many anti-wrinkle creams contain some form of retinol (for instance, in the form of retinyl
palmitate) which in various formulations has been shown to give a "rejuvenating"
appearance to the skin, in that it stimulates the renewal of skin cells and reduces dark
spots. Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids have a peeling effect when used as
chemical peels. However, the effects of these compounds likely depend on their
concentration and mode of application, making the effects of the commercial products
less certain.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti- aging_cream

Retinol

Retinol (vitamin A) is used in the cosmetics industry as an antiwrinkle agent. However, its
photoinstability and skin irritation potential make it challenging to use in general cosmetic
formulations.
In a small study retinyl N-formyl aspartamate applied on a photodamaged face twice daily
was significantly more effective than a placebo without severe side effects.
http://www.eblue.org/article/PIIS0190962206000156/abstract



 

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